The fabulous 2017 Chablis by Thomas Pico

Tags

burgundy, chablis, Chardonnay, maison sota, paris, pattes loup, thomas pico

The face of a man who works tirelessly in the vineyard. Thomas also just returned from a market visit to Japan, and headed straight to the Les Penitentes tasting, an off-fair in Angers during the St Jean de Greniers and Salon de la Loire.

After the meager allocation of the 2015 and 2016 vintages, and supplemented by the delicious Vin de France from Limoux, which is now discontinued, we are now fully stocked with the superb 2017 vintage Chablis. This wine is a blend of sites all in Courgis, a small village in the Chablis appellation with 250 inhabitants. The other well known family and producer are Alice & Olivier de Moor, which whom Thomas share similar philosophies, and also learned from.

William Kelly describes it: “..wafts from the glass with aromas of fresh apple, white flowers and marzipan, followed by a medium to full-bodied, broad and satiny palate that’s racy but enveloping, with superb cut and definition despite its comparatively broad shoulders and textural profile.” RP 92 p

While this is not classic, the style is still very much Chablis, from hand harvest and natural ferment and low sulphur at bottling. It is the kind of wine that carries itself very well with modern haute cuisine found around the world, where chefs focus on the purity of ingredients, reducing butter, and giving each dish an acid lick.

Maison Sota appears to be Japanese Chalet that is set in a narrow side street of the 11th arrondissement. Currently, the lower floor is empty, leavings guests guessing what will happen in the future – a dance hall?

The produce is selected from a top supplier in one of France’s departements. Chef Atsumi’s classical training and Japanese perfectionism is seen and tasted across the small and large menu set at Euro 95 / 140. I have rarely tasted sweetbread and pigeon of this quality and cooking.

3 rue Saint-Hubert
75011 Paris

Tel: +33 (0)1 43 38 61 95 Email: contact@maison-sota.com

Organic Chardonnay from Limoux

Tags

Chardonnay, france, limoux, organic, thomas pico

The Languedoc region is vast, and we tend to forget the pockets of cooler climes such as Limoux, a region whose bottled-fermented sparkling precedes even fine Champagne.

It appears that viticulteurs here have been silently working one some fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling wines that are sold all over France, but almost unheard of in the export markets. Etienne Fort, an organic grower with vistas of the Pyrenees, is the type of friend Thomas Pico could rely on helping him get out of the dire situation in 2016.

 

Typical to the Pico style, the key element in his Limoux rendition is balance and a sensuous palate feel. This is a far cry from the ubiquitous Chardonnay, which wine lovers created ABC for (Anything But Chardonnay, but mind you, even this acronym is less heard of today.)

“Perhaps it’s the power of suggestion and having the phrase ‘when life gives you lemons, make lemonade’ in mind, but the aromas are all lemon zest and stone fruits. You don’t get that layer of seashell and mineral tone that comes from Chablis famous Kimmeridgian limestone soils, but the cool windswept region of Limoux does provide a bright acidity that one wouldn’t expect from the Languedoc. Lots of roundness on the palate from minimal filtration, and the absence of oak allow the bright character to show through as vigorously as possible. While this isn’t a wine to make you forget about Chablis, it definitely shows a Chablis maker’s hand was used to craft it, and will help to scratch the itches due to come up over the next few years when wines of this price and quality will be so hard to find.” Wine Warehouse Inc.

Coche Dury, perhaps the finest white wine in the world

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burgundy, Chardonnay, coche dury, meursault, off track france, raphael coche, reduction

There is a place, somewhere off the beaten path, which we are unable to divulge. This restaurant is owned by a chef and avid wine collector, who for many years traveled to Burgundy and Champagne to find vinous jewels. This is where I first came across a Coche Dury, and realized there is no other wine like it, and also conclude no other restaurant will offer at this price.

It is positive that long-time buyers are offered reasonable ex-cellar prices, which we newbies are not. Despite the difference, we remain upbeat for this brightly shining village Meursault, as the stellar 2015 is already trading at a higher prices in Hong Kong and New York.

Below is a good description of this fine Burgundy producer by Steen Öhman, the editor, writer and owner of Winehog.org, a blog which was launched in 2011 and is a site focused solely on the wines of Burgundy. Please allow me to quote him:

What is so special about Coche-Dury

Coche-Dury has almost legendary status among wine connoisseurs, and rightly so. His wines are something special, and he almost have the same status as Henri Jayer, who was quite unique in Vosne Romanee.

Coche-Dury – bouquet and taste

Coche-Dury are very expressive wines that really jumps from the glass. It is not subtle or for that matter aristocratic wines, no they are quite flamboyant wines of almost incredibly high quality.

The first thing you notice is the assertive bouquet of gun powder and hints of popcorn – which can be very distinctive when the wines are young. They also have quite a considerable note of new oak, which together with the various nuances of the Chardonnay grape gives a complex and challenging nose.

On the palate the wines has very fine textures and freshness that comes from both the soil and the fine acidity structure. The wines are never overripe, but retain their suppleness and finesse. There is a pronounced Coche style, but this does not prevent the individual vineyards terroir to shine through. They are terroir wines but have a quite distinctive style that characterizes all the wines from the domaine.

Why does Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury make better wine?

A large part of the explanation for the high quality is most likely found in the vineyards, where a thorough work combined with very old vines in several vineyards yield some special wines. He manages to make wines that are both fresh and resilient although the concentration is quite high, something very few manufacturers are able to match.

Coche-Dury are, of course, also very skilled in the cellar, but I think it is in the vineyards he makes the big difference, which is probably one of the reasons that nobody has been able to copy his style and qualities.”

For the full article read here.

 

Domaine Robert Denogent, Maconnais

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burgundy, Chardonnay, domaine robert denogent, france, macon, old vines, pouilly fuisse, st veran

To quote from legendary U.S. wine importer Kermit Lynch “I consider the whites of the region, Macon, Saint Veran, and Pouilly Fuisse, to be proper white Burgundies. Here we have similar soils, the grape is Chardonnay, and the difference between the appellations are no more than passionately interesting questions of personality. Deciding whether to serve a Macon blanc or a Meursault is not a question of which is the best wine. It is an exercise in forming the most appropriate alliance between the wine and the plate it will accompany, or the environment in which it will be served.”

He continues “Macon blanc should be light-bodied, never above 12 percent alcohol, St Veran is rounder than Macon Blanc, but simpler than Pouilly Fuisse. It will tolerate a bit of new oak.” These paragraphs are from his book Adventures on the wine route, published in 1988. Of course the world today as well as the wine isn’t how it was back then. Kermit Lynch later became the importer of Robert Denogent, and the estate’s ambitions and hard work paid off,  so that the family’s reputation resonates more to  “These are wines of a much different class, whose reflection of terroir is one more likely found farther north in the prestigious Côte d’Or.” according to Kermit.

We suggest you try this old St Veran, which appears to be the most mineral, and decide later, if you are interested in the Macon Les Sardines, potentially sublime house Burgundy with texture, spice and honeysuckle, or in one of the two Pouilly Fuisse cuvees based on 60-80 year old vines from blue schist or clay limestone soils.

Neil Martin for Robert Parker writes “The wines from Domaine Robert Denogent are distinctive, beautifully crafted and manage to express their terroir with great clarity. You might assume that the extended time in barrel might dominate the style of the cuvées, perhaps erase some of the nuances of terroir, but they do not impede at all. The 2014 Saint Veran Les Pommards Vieilles Vignes offers fragrant scents of yellow flowers, mirabelle and cold granite on the nose: very well defined and gaining intensity all the time in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with a touch of apricot on the entry, extremely well judged acidity and a nonchalant, harmonious finish with hints of grapefruit and yellow plum. This is simply delicious. 91 points”

Kumeu River, Auckland, New Zealand

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auckland, burgundian, Chardonnay, kumeu river, new zealand

Kumeu River is one of the 10 or 12 estates we started off with in 2013. Year in year out, their wines, starting from the village and going all the way to the top with Mate’s Vineyard, are compelling in their own right. Frankly, it is also their relatively low price for fine Chardonnay, that have made it possible for listings in almost all gastronomic hotels and restaurants in Thailand. (Below credit NZ Wine Blogger)

The Brajkovich family is very much involved in every aspect of the family estate, with each of the four children sharing responsibility for winemaking (Michael, 1st Master of Wine in New Zealand), viticulture (Milan), sales (Paul) and tasting room plus activities, events (Marijana), while Mother Melba continues as Managing Director, and is one of the longest standing female executives in the industry. (Below credit Kumeu River)

Every year, sometimes in SFO, then in London, there is a panel tasting hosted by industry captains and fine wine writers, where the Coddington is pitted against village wines from the Cote d’Or, the Hunting Hill against 1er Cru vineyard wines, and the Mate’s against Grand Cru level. Surprise, surprise, they keep getting voted into one of the top ranks. Sadly our rotation here is quick, and we don’t have enough stock of the single vineyard wines to put down and taste after 5-6 years; am certain the reward is immense. (Below credit Pic Bear)

The vineyard is only 50 meters above sea level with both warm and cooling influence depending winds from either the Tasman Sea or Pacific Ocean. Similar to the Cote d’Or the vines grow on clay with overlying sandstone, with vines aged 5-55 years. The trained lyre system helps prevent sunburn from high UV in New Zealand, there is no irrigation.

Try this Estate bottling, which is at the core of the range, and see how close New Zealand Chardonnay can resemble a Bourgogne Blanc. Then later you might want to opt for the villages bottle as your everyday white wine, or venture into the nuanced single vineyard on special occasions. This one goes very well with richer seafood or poultry, and even spicy Thai curries. Decant for 30 minutes when young to allow the fruit to balance in to minerality.

“Still a Kiwi classic, Kumeu River’s 2016 Estate Chardonnay features toasted grain aromas, ripe peach and nectarine flavors and a long, citrus-inflected finish. It’s medium-bodied, with a plump, silky texture and up to a decade of aging potential.” 91 points Wine Advocate

A gift of gold

Tags

burgundy, cellar, Chardonnay, cote d'or, france, meursault, potinet ampeau

The village of Meursault ranks among the 3 most illustrious names for white Burgundy (Chardonnay) with Puligny Montrachet and neighboring Chassagne Montrachet.

While there aren’t any Grand Cru vineyards the very best 1er crus are distinctive with fatness, richness and nutty-butteriness. Surely on the top of every collector’s favorite will be Coche Dury or Comte Lafon, known for their amazing density and long life, plus also Roulot, Colin-Morey or Arnaud Ente. Each have resounding names and resonate prestige, however they are pricey and Coche Dury will sell at a multiple of 10 compared to the rest (Euro 2,000 per bottle in Europe).

Today’s offer is from the 1er Cru Perrières vineyard, in fact worthy of Grand Cru status, as it shows a mineral edge, earthy richness, and complex fruit profile.

So how did we come about offering the Potinet Ampeau at such a fair price and is it worth it? We say absolutely!

The relationship with Patricia and Alain Corcia allows us to tap into the cellars of this estate, which owns more than 20 acres, but remains under the radar. They already exported to the USA in 1920, but as one generation decided to work as professionals outside of the cellar, their wines remained unknown to the broad market until Vincent Durieux took over in 1993. His work is very traditional and these classic wines need time.

Please consider yourself lucky to try this late release from their cellar in Monthelie. Just in time to cater to your special evening.

Should you like this wine, we also recommend the rounder Potinet Ampeau’s Meursault Charmes 2004, or compact Puligny Montrachet Champs Gain 2010, with an even longer life ahead.

Domaine de la Cadette, Vezelay, Burgundy

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burgundy, Chardonnay, la cadette, montanet thoden, vezelay

In 1989 I was lucky enough to have traveled to Marc Meneau’s Esperance in Vezelay – then one of France’s top dining destinations with 3 Michelin stars. I suppose everyone visiting this part of Burgundy will have remembered the restaurant, and quickly forget the name of the town. Not because it’s insignificant, but the restaurant was located several kilometers below the beautiful mountain top and likely wasn’t visited as often.

Fast forward to 2014. I was wondering around Millesime Bio, the largest organic wine fair in Montpellier, searching for Thomas Pico’s (Domaine Pattes Loup) father and sat down next to the charming and energetic Valentin Montanet. We did not really discuss his wines,  and focused on all sorts of things including his favorite honeymoon destination – Thailand. I parted, saying I would call him up when visiting Chablis few months later.

 

In April 2015 I arrived chez Domaine Montanet Thoden (the estate has to official names as one part of the vineyards is owned by his mother, the other his father) before flowering started in the vineyards. Only then did I realize I was in the same village as Marc Meneau’s restaurant. Now closed for business and as Valentin said “the days when Americans flew in by helicopter to lunch in one and go for dinner in another 3-star Michelin are over. This is now a sleepy village.”

No Michelin, who cares – Valentin offered the best beef tartar and a gorgeous plum in a small hidden bistro! And thank god the wines also improved! So good, they are now listed in many natural wine bars from Paris to Tokyo and Hong Kong. Made from beautiful old vine Chardonnay, organically grown on limestone soil, these are the prime ingredients for a mineralic Chardonnay comme un Chablis, but with subtle citrus, nutty essence with white flowers.

“It is easy to determine why many of the great restaurants of Europe including Le Chateaubriand and others stocks the wines of this domaine. They are pure, delicate and flavorsome.” Sue Dyson and Roger McShane, Living Wines

One of France’s affordable trophies, and perfect lucky find!

 

Interview Michael Brajkovich, Kumeu River Wines

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Chardonnay, kumeu river wines, mate's vineyard, michael brajkovich, new zealand, winemaker interview

Michael, Master of Wine, in the middle

Name: Michael Brajkovich

Winery: Kumeu River Wines

Town/Country: Kumeu, New Zealand

1. Which spot in your vineyard is the most special and why?

At the top of the Hunting Hill vineyard there is a very good view of Mate’s Vineyard, and out to the West, the Waitakere Ranges. It’s beautiful and it’s a reminder of what we are and where we are.

Mate’s Vineyard, Kumeu’s top cru

1. If you link the dots in your life, which experience was the most crucial relating to how you make your wine today?

In the first instance, travelling to South Australia in 1979 to study Oenology at Roseworthy College was pivotal in my career, followed by a stint in France for the 1983 Harvest. I was very fortunate to be in the right place at the right time over very many years, and had the benefit of many great mentors such as Mate Brajkovich (my father), Tom McDonald, Bob Baker, Bryce Rankine, Richard Smart, Peter Dry, Jack Schultz, Christian Moueix, Jean-Claude Berrouet, Sarah Morphew, Hugh Phillips and Kit Stevens.

2. What kind of music do you enjoy listening to when making wine in your cellar?

I really prefer silence in the cellar so I can listen and hear what’s going on, particularly during barrel fermentation and MLF. The sounds of the winery will also tell you if something is going wrong. And I prefer talking to my colleagues rather than shouting.

Otherwise my taste in music is fairly broad, but centred on Rock and Roll and venturing into Country, Blues, Soul and Jazz, with a smattering of Classical and Opera. My all-time favourite band is the Beatles, and I am currently listening to old John Fogerty, Rockpile, Dave Edmunds and Nick Lowe recordings.

4. Name a regional dish from your area, which matches best with one of your wines.

Fresh Crayfish from the West coast is extremely hard to get these days, but when we can we cook it quickly and serve with a simple dressing of olive oil and vinegar. It is the best accompaniment I can think of for our Chardonnay wines.

5. Name a restaurant from your recent travels around the world, which changed the way you thought about food and why?

Le Bernadin in New York. I ate a menu of exquisite seafood from start to finish, and it was a superb expression of the chef’s art as well as being from wonderful ingredients. It also meant that I could drink white wine right through the courses, and why not?  I would like to present such a degustation menu with only our white wines (chardonnay, pinot gris and gewürztraminer) to accompany it.

6. If your wine would die, who or what would it come back as (person/animal)?

Grace Kelly.

Regularly clocking in the mid-90s range in ratings by wine experts

Billecart Salmon Grande Cuvee 1996

Tags

billecart salmon, blanc de blancs, Champagne, Chardonnay, mature

Billecart Salmon Grand Cuvee 1996

A classy but poised Champagne which begins to have secondary aromas. Unfortunately this bottle was enjoyed with other 9 people and there was no time for this massive Champagne to open up in the glass. Not sure there will be another chance! In this group, environment only 4 stars, expected more, but maybe it got lost in the crowd.

What is the best Champagne alternative while in Thailand?

Tags

alternative to Champagne, California, Champagne, Chardonnay, North Coast, Pinot Noir, Schramsberg Vineyards Company, White House

While living in New York and working at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, I came across Schramsberg at many occasions.  Must admit though, that I have never bought a single bottle, despite it being the wine of choice at White House’s state functions.

old American winery

And the reason was simple!

Entry-level French Champagne costs only a few dollars more!

a house, a farm, and large winery

Fine bubbles, bread dough and apples and lime

old press, probably older than the winery

Most people appreciate good Champagne for its fine and elegant mousse, intermingling aromas of yeast, apples and lime, plus the cut from the refreshing acidity.  But now that the recent tax change has pushed the real deal over the THB 3,000-4,000 mark there is good reason to look around.

2 years on the lees

So I finally bought a Schramsberg, a Californian specialist in sparkling wine for close to 50 years.  The Blanc de Blancs from the 2009 vintage is made from a selection of Chardonnay grapes grown in various North Coast AVAs in California.

as close as it gets to Champagne!

It ages for 24 months on its lees to gain complexity (somewhat less than the 36 months for Champagne).  Tasted blind, with no less than 4 winemakers, all from Siam Winery, the Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2009, shows exactly what one would expect from a Chardonnay-based Champagne, and we were stunned! A really enjoyable drink.

This vintage is starting to drink nicely, and will open up in the next 3-5 years.  Its golden color, fine bead, and mineral inflicted notes will go nicely with oysters, caviar and whatever you indulge in this New Year.

the 07 needed almost 45 minutes to expand in the glass

If you enjoy the flavors and dryness of a fine Champagne, and are willing to spend around THB 2,000 per bottle, this or its sibling, the Blanc de Noirs (a white sparkler from Pinot Noir grapes) is the ideal alternative to pick.

Related articles

• Recent Releases from Schramsberg (biggerthanyourhead.net)
• Which wine for holiday? Food-loving Champagne (sfgate.com)
• Enjoying Gloria Ferrer Sparking Wine for the Holidays (awinestory.com)
• A serious state for American sparkling wine (sfgate.com)