Domaine Robert Denogent, Maconnais

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burgundy, Chardonnay, domaine robert denogent, france, macon, old vines, pouilly fuisse, st veran

To quote from legendary U.S. wine importer Kermit Lynch “I consider the whites of the region, Macon, Saint Veran, and Pouilly Fuisse, to be proper white Burgundies. Here we have similar soils, the grape is Chardonnay, and the difference between the appellations are no more than passionately interesting questions of personality. Deciding whether to serve a Macon blanc or a Meursault is not a question of which is the best wine. It is an exercise in forming the most appropriate alliance between the wine and the plate it will accompany, or the environment in which it will be served.”

He continues “Macon blanc should be light-bodied, never above 12 percent alcohol, St Veran is rounder than Macon Blanc, but simpler than Pouilly Fuisse. It will tolerate a bit of new oak.” These paragraphs are from his book Adventures on the wine route, published in 1988. Of course the world today as well as the wine isn’t how it was back then. Kermit Lynch later became the importer of Robert Denogent, and the estate’s ambitions and hard work paid off,  so that the family’s reputation resonates more to  “These are wines of a much different class, whose reflection of terroir is one more likely found farther north in the prestigious Côte d’Or.” according to Kermit.

We suggest you try this old St Veran, which appears to be the most mineral, and decide later, if you are interested in the Macon Les Sardines, potentially sublime house Burgundy with texture, spice and honeysuckle, or in one of the two Pouilly Fuisse cuvees based on 60-80 year old vines from blue schist or clay limestone soils.

Neil Martin for Robert Parker writes “The wines from Domaine Robert Denogent are distinctive, beautifully crafted and manage to express their terroir with great clarity. You might assume that the extended time in barrel might dominate the style of the cuvées, perhaps erase some of the nuances of terroir, but they do not impede at all. The 2014 Saint Veran Les Pommards Vieilles Vignes offers fragrant scents of yellow flowers, mirabelle and cold granite on the nose: very well defined and gaining intensity all the time in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with a touch of apricot on the entry, extremely well judged acidity and a nonchalant, harmonious finish with hints of grapefruit and yellow plum. This is simply delicious. 91 points”

A gift of gold

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burgundy, cellar, Chardonnay, cote d'or, france, meursault, potinet ampeau

The village of Meursault ranks among the 3 most illustrious names for white Burgundy (Chardonnay) with Puligny Montrachet and neighboring Chassagne Montrachet.

While there aren’t any Grand Cru vineyards the very best 1er crus are distinctive with fatness, richness and nutty-butteriness. Surely on the top of every collector’s favorite will be Coche Dury or Comte Lafon, known for their amazing density and long life, plus also Roulot, Colin-Morey or Arnaud Ente. Each have resounding names and resonate prestige, however they are pricey and Coche Dury will sell at a multiple of 10 compared to the rest (Euro 2,000 per bottle in Europe).

Today’s offer is from the 1er Cru Perrières vineyard, in fact worthy of Grand Cru status, as it shows a mineral edge, earthy richness, and complex fruit profile.

So how did we come about offering the Potinet Ampeau at such a fair price and is it worth it? We say absolutely!

The relationship with Patricia and Alain Corcia allows us to tap into the cellars of this estate, which owns more than 20 acres, but remains under the radar. They already exported to the USA in 1920, but as one generation decided to work as professionals outside of the cellar, their wines remained unknown to the broad market until Vincent Durieux took over in 1993. His work is very traditional and these classic wines need time.

Please consider yourself lucky to try this late release from their cellar in Monthelie. Just in time to cater to your special evening.

Should you like this wine, we also recommend the rounder Potinet Ampeau’s Meursault Charmes 2004, or compact Puligny Montrachet Champs Gain 2010, with an even longer life ahead.

Domaine Henri Delagrange, Burgundy

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burgundy, french wine, hautes cotes de beaune, henri delagrange, Pinot Noir

“No view, no landscape, however varied, picturesque or grandiose can make me forget my little valley in Bourgogne”. So wrote Alexandre Dumas of a valley in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune. The Hautes Côtes overlooks the Côte de Beaune from the west, lying between Maranges and Ladoix-Serrigny. The interior is a succession of hills and valleys. The vines cover the sunny slopes at the foot of a limestone cliff.

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If you are just starting to get into Burgundy this may be no better way to start than with Didier Delagrange’s Hautes Cotes de Beaune. Made from grapes sourced 150 meters above the Pommard valley, this charming Pinot Noir offers aromas and flavors of violet, cherry, raspberry and crushed strawberry. It’s difficult to find a tastier red Burgundy at this price.

The domaine itself is in Volnay, Côte d’Or, and the family own fourteen and a half hectares of vines in the best situations in Côte de Beaune.

The family Domaine has been in existence for more than six generations. From 1978, it included the vines of Gisèle Verdereau and Henri Delagrange who then worked 6 hectares, mainly in Volnay and Pommard. Didier joined the business in 1990, after completing his viticulture studies, and worked with his parents until 2003. Having the foresight in 1999 to purchase land and plant on the underused slopes of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune has paid off in spades for Delagrange family. Didier Delagrange’s Bourgogne Rouge is hand-harvested, spends 15 days in open tanks and is aged for 10 months in both oak barrels and steel tanks.

 

 

 

Domaine de la Cadette, Vezelay, Burgundy

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burgundy, Chardonnay, la cadette, montanet thoden, vezelay

In 1989 I was lucky enough to have traveled to Marc Meneau’s Esperance in Vezelay – then one of France’s top dining destinations with 3 Michelin stars. I suppose everyone visiting this part of Burgundy will have remembered the restaurant, and quickly forget the name of the town. Not because it’s insignificant, but the restaurant was located several kilometers below the beautiful mountain top and likely wasn’t visited as often.

Fast forward to 2014. I was wondering around Millesime Bio, the largest organic wine fair in Montpellier, searching for Thomas Pico’s (Domaine Pattes Loup) father and sat down next to the charming and energetic Valentin Montanet. We did not really discuss his wines,  and focused on all sorts of things including his favorite honeymoon destination – Thailand. I parted, saying I would call him up when visiting Chablis few months later.

 

In April 2015 I arrived chez Domaine Montanet Thoden (the estate has to official names as one part of the vineyards is owned by his mother, the other his father) before flowering started in the vineyards. Only then did I realize I was in the same village as Marc Meneau’s restaurant. Now closed for business and as Valentin said “the days when Americans flew in by helicopter to lunch in one and go for dinner in another 3-star Michelin are over. This is now a sleepy village.”

No Michelin, who cares – Valentin offered the best beef tartar and a gorgeous plum in a small hidden bistro! And thank god the wines also improved! So good, they are now listed in many natural wine bars from Paris to Tokyo and Hong Kong. Made from beautiful old vine Chardonnay, organically grown on limestone soil, these are the prime ingredients for a mineralic Chardonnay comme un Chablis, but with subtle citrus, nutty essence with white flowers.

“It is easy to determine why many of the great restaurants of Europe including Le Chateaubriand and others stocks the wines of this domaine. They are pure, delicate and flavorsome.” Sue Dyson and Roger McShane, Living Wines

One of France’s affordable trophies, and perfect lucky find!

 

Interview Bruno Lorenzon, Domaine Lorenzon

Tags

bruno lorenzon, burgundy, carline, domaine lorenzon, mercurey, Pinot Noir

Name: Bruno Lorenzon

Winery: Domaine Lorenzon

Town/Country: Mercurey, France

1. Which spot in your vineyard is the most special and why?

The slope on top of the Champs Martin vineyard.  It is very chalky, not much clay and lots of stones, which gives our wine its purity and elegance.

2. If you link the dots in your life, which experience was the most crucial relating to how you make your wine today?

To have worked all around the wine world, and come back to Mercurey, realizing how lucky we are to inherit such great terroir.

Carline comes from the top part of the slope

3. What kind of music do you enjoy listening to when making wine in your cellar?

It varies a lot between classical, reggae and at time pop music.

4. Name a regional dish from your area, which matches best with one of your wines.

Without a doubt Cote du Boeuf!

5. Name a restaurant from your recent travels around the world, which changed the way you thought about food and why?

Joel Robuchon in Tokyo for its finesse and beauty.

6. If your wine would die, who or what would it come back as (person/animal)?

A great cyclist with a lot of energy!

Jean Grivot Nuits St Georges Boudots 2002

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appia bangkok, burgundy, decant, grivot, wine garage, wine glass

should decant red Burgs

Burgundians say a Burgundy should never be decanted, as the commotion would change the structure of this delicate wine.

I listened when drinking this mature Nuits St Georges by high regarded Jean Grivot , and wished I would’nt have! By the time the bottle was almost finished the good old barnyard and earthy aromas plus sensitive texture appeared as expected.

3.5 out of 5 stars

Benjamin Leroux Nuits St Georges Aux Allots 2011

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Benjamin Leroux, burgundy, Camiile Giroud, camille giroud, Savigny, young wine

Aux Allot 2011 tough and tannic

young but soft

Had two very different experiences with these 2011 red Burgundies. The Savigny was very much approachable straight out of the bottle, while the Nuits St Georges is still very tight. This just shows what a difference the winemaker and terroir can impart just several hills and vineyards apart. Know what you are buying!