Churton, new world wine tempered with old world style

Tags

churton, marlborough, new world, new zealand, Sauvignon Blanc

Churton was established in 1997 by Sam and Mandy Weaver. From site selection and bio-dynamic practices through to low intervention winemaking, Churton produces exceptional terroir driven wines.

Churton is a 22 hectare single vineyard and encompasses an undulating ridge line between the Omaka and Waihopai valleys in Marlborough, New Zealand. 200 metres above sea level, the distinctive property faces northeast and captures the cool morning and warm daytime sun ideal for slow and long ripening. Soils are older and denser than the neighbouring valley floor with good clay content.

Sam and Mandy are dedicated to producing just four varietals; sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, viognier and petit manseng. Their vineyard in composed of 17 singular blocks each with its own unique aspect and topography and, at present, The Abyss and Best End are
bottled individually.

Sam describes “Often biodynamics is regarded at the crazy end of organic production. What could be dafter than stirring cow dung matured in buried cow’s horn in water for 60 minutes then throwing it about on the farm, and then what relevance do lunar cycles have to farming practices. Are we lunatics or what?

At Churton I have a strong belief that our biodynamic farming approach is rational and makes complete sense.

Above all it helps us produce better wines that have more individuality and really demonstrate the farm (terroir) where they come from.

As a microbiologist I believe biodynamics works from the ground up. We work hard to improve our microbiology by using composts and various biodynamic preparations. We run a system that is a polyculture and actively encourage biodiversity by increasing our plant and animal species (We plant companion species of flora between the rows in the vineyard, raise our own cattle and keep bees). And yes, we do take note of lunar cycles; after all didn’t our grandfathers plant by the moon?

Wine making is an art as much as a science. Growing the best grapes to make the best wine combines both of these disciplines too. Biodynamic philosophy gives us a structure to help understand these disparate approaches and in the end really.”

Montenidoli, a wine from a different era

Tags

Elizabetta Fagiuoli, montenidoli, san gimignano, sangiovese, sergio patriach foundation, tuscany, vernaccia

Travelling through the wine world, we come across many special locales and meet artists as well as technologically-sound winemakers, whose wines ring up excellent scores from reviewers. Being around nature, those involved in the trade are well connected with the environment, and every once in a while we arrive in a place where there is spirituality tied to both soil and the philosophy of all the people working there.

Montenidoli is a unique place; for one the estate lies above the town with beautiful vistas down the valley and up to the crowning forest, but it is also about the Fagiuoli family, their wines and their aim to create a “bridge” to unite different cultures in the common language of mother earth, the path of her wine is used communicate and instill friendship.

100EOS5D

The estate covers 24 hectares of vines and 200 hectares of forests. Two very different soil types have formed millions of years ago and are the bedrock for the traditionally made wines. The white varietals flourish on the Ligurian seabed with sea shells, and the red makes unique style of wines on the Triassic soils with rocks formed over 350 million years.Traditional Tuscan varietals take the lead here. The white is Vernaccia making structured and deep wines with herbal and almond perfumes, rich flavors, and a dry, crisp finish. The red is always Sangiovese – pure or blended at times with white
grapes like in past. It is rustic, but aromatic and persistent, embodying the rural surrounding of this land, and goes very well with Beefsteak Florentine.

The essence of nature is found in each glass, however the spirituality we mentioned is best displayed with Sergio the Patriarch Foundation, which Elisabetta founded with her late husband Sergio. They met in school, where she noticed his gift to enter the mind of troubled persons and give peace and love to their spirits. She thinks what is mostly needed in our little planet is to nurture the truthful rule of attention, love, and harmony to people. So the Foundation aims to be the place that unites people. Each year they will host for one month elderly people in need of rest and love, as well as youngsters in search of their identity through the message of nature.

Atlan & Artisan 8 Vents, made by the winds

Tags

8 vents, baleares, cabernet sauvignon, mallorca, merlot, philippe bramaz, sebastian keller, spanish wine

A long time ago, I made the mistake believing Mallorca is where Germans go on holiday to drink beer, lots of beer at Ballermann. Little did I know that one day I would contemplate living there – enjoying the mild climate, scenic countryside, and pristine waters – and most importantly with access to major European cities.

Dschungel auf Mallorca, Spanien

It took Wine Garage and Quince partner, Philippe, many years to convince us to take the trip. But once you set foot on this island, the yearning to go back won’t ever fade. It is a place, which combines all elements of a great vacation, some indulgence, and old European culture.

The Phoenicians were likely to plant the first vineyards, but surely the industry was in full swing after the Romans settled. Being a popular tourist destination today, the consumption is mainly on the island itself, as well as countries such as Germany and Switzerland, where travelers head back after the vacation to reminisce.

We are pleased to offer 8 Vents, not only as a beautiful reminder of its heritage, but also because a good tasting Cabernet Merlot blend is difficult to find at this price range. The wine spent 12 months in French oak barrels, has the nose and body of a North Coast Californian wine, but maintains its balance and subtler fruit profile from the milder climate and strong winds that shaped it.

Lets hope the sheer number of arrivals during the busy summer months will not one day deplete all wine stocks on Mallorca.

Photo credits: landscape, vineyard and Palma from the internet

Spanish Steps dinner at Bunker, May 7-9th, 2017

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andreas pergher, arnie marcella, Bangkok, bodega k, bunker, cims de porrera, dehesa la granja, equipo navazos, new american, olivier riviere, raventos i blanc, spain, spanish wine, wine dinner, wine garage, zarate

We are extremely pleased to work with Arnie Marcella, Chef and Andreas Pergher, Beverage Director, on this menu and wine pairing, which traces back Arnie’s history and stories.

The above 4-course menu is thb 2,250++ with optional wine pairing  at thb 1,500++.

Recently, the dining front of our City of Angels seems to progress faster than any other Asian metropoles; unfolding new entries, especially from Spain, with an array of dishes and wines that shed light on our senses.

For this dinner we propose wines from some of Spain’s most innovative regions or winemakers and invite you to join our road to discovery:

Raventos I Blanc, formerly in the Cava D.O, but Manuel and Pepe decided to depart in 2013, and began the process of creating a new, terroir driven appellation, Conca del Riu Anoia. As an aperitif we pour their chalky and dry Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2014.

Equipo Navazos, are partners Dr Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda, who have single-handedly revived the sherry landscape by releasing small lots from long-forgotten bodegas. This Florpower however is not fortified, but shows how the precise Palomino grape can become with ageing under flor for 20 months. Dense, with lovely minerality and nutty background.

Bodega K, is one of many producers in the wet and windy Basque country. We fell in love with the simple and fresh aromatics of Txacolina, which bursts with energy and pairs well with seafood.

Zarate, there is Albarino and there is Zarate. Say no more. Galicia’s favorite white wine for seafood.

Dehesa La Granja, is a mature Tempranillo from legendary winemaker Alejandro Fernandez of Pesquera. The Toro region brings out powerful and intense wines, however the 24 months in oak cask followed by 6 years bottle ageing does its trick here and delivers and great drink today.

Olivier Riviere, the terroirist Frenchman in Rioja, also works a small plot in the Arlanza DO. The high elevation and old vines planted in 1930s, makes a wine unlike any other Tempranillo – showcasing floral, black wild berries and spicy notes.

Vi de Vila Priorat, is made by the Cims de Porrera cooperatives high above the Mediterranean Sea. The old vines and unique licorella soil (black slate) are responsible for a powerful and intriguing red wine.

 

Arnie Marcella’s career was exclusively in star-studded NYC restaurants including Jean-Georges, Marea, Corton, Alto, The Elm, Aldea, Docle Stil Novo, and Ai Fiori. So perhaps, later next year, The Bangkok Michelin Guide will also have a place for Bunker?

To book please call  092 563 9991 or email reservation@bunkerbkk.com

 

Vasco Croft, winemaker Aphros, Portugal

Tags

aphros, loureiro, Portugal, Sauvignon Blanc, vasco croft, vinho verde

Vinho Verde is the most northern wine region of Portugal, bordering with Spain’s Galicia. For this reason, the Albarinho grape is also prevalent here. Typically the light-bodied Vinho Verdes will be a blend Loureiro, Avesso and Alvarinho, each contributing a fair share to acidity, aroma and body. While thank god, the fizz in the wine has gone, the overachieving winemakers, such as Vasco Croft churn out are some of the best mineralic wines on earth.

Formerly an architect in Lisbon, Vasco switched careers and took over the century old family estate. He was one of the first to achieve biodynamic certification, and quickly focused his attention to the new-old-tools of fermenting and ageing in clay amphoras. To date, the range consists of various Loureiro wines or blends, plus some distinctive crunchy earthy and dark berried Vinhao, a red specialty of the region, plus some extremely limited Pet Nat wines.

Our wine today is Aether, is a 50-50% blend of tank fermented Sauvignon Blanc and barrel fermented Loureiro. The wine is light yet intense, exudes a melange of agrume, salty minerality, and herbal notes. Its the kind of wine that changes its character with its every sip. Try it as an aperitif, with shellfish or simply outdoors by the pool.

The Naturalists from Antipodes

Tags

adelaide hills, australia, biodynamic, canterbury, Gary Mills, Jamsheed, Jauma, natural wine, new zealand, ochota barrels, organic, patrick sullivan, pyramid valley, william downie, Wine, yarra

The last 10 years have seen many independent growers and winemakers emerge in many of today’s “cool” wine regions including Yarra, Adelaide Hills (Australia) or Canterbury (New Zealand). Most likely, these individuals traveled extensively, worked and tasted with the best winemakers, and scraped their pennies together to either buy or rent vineyards to grow healthy grapes and make soulful wines they believe in. Be it certified organic, biodynamic, or not, these scented wines and balanced wines, often with crunchy fruit from whole cluster fermentation, are delicious to taste today.

Please join us at About Eatery on Saturday April 1st and taste the magnificent wines from James Erskine (Jauma), Gary Mills (Jamsheed), Patrick Sullivan, William Downie, Taras and Amber (Ochota Barrels) and Claudia and Mike Weersing (Pyramid Valley). They are a style one their own, and a world apart from what you find on the shelves.

Limited to 12 seats, each at thb 700. Starts 0530pm. To book email marketing@winegarage.asia

Jauma Thousand Fires

Pyramid Valley Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay

Ochota Barrels Fugazi Grenache

Patrick Sullivan Pinot Noir Amazon

Jamsheed Ma Petite Francine

Bill Downie Petit Verdot

Wine Enthusiast’s Winemaker of the Year 2016

Tags

cape wine, kloof street, mullineux, red blends, south africa, swartland, white blends

The lucky couple met in the Rhone Valley, and took their impressions back to Chris’ home in the Western Cape, South Africa.

Working sustainable, or naturally as one can say, they intend to make old guard Cape wines, mainly from blends of Rhone or Mediterranean varietals. Their wines get a balanced feel from the 3 soil types spread across the plots, namely decomposed granite (freshness), schist/shale (richness) and red clay (mid-palate depth).

Kloof Street is made to impress on freshness, balance and great drinkability. And Rouge is a Syrah-based blend with Cinsault, Carignan, and Mourvedre exuding leafy, herbal character supported by raspberry and cherry aromatics.

Make this your juicy starter into the new South Africa.

Rated Robert Parker 88 points, Wine Anorak 90 points

Alpamanta, not just another Malbec

Tags

alpamanta, Andrej Razumovsky, argentina, biodynamic, luyan de cuyo, malbec, mendoza, Wine

Half Dane-Half Austrian Andrej Razumovsky and his partners planted a new vineyard in Mendoza’s prime area of Luyan de Cuyo around 2005. They selected a patch of land that never was worked on before, with the aim to establish the first biodynamic vineyard in Argentina.

The reds from these high altitude vineyards – 1,000 meters and more – often get long and intense sun hours, giving rise to potent wines. So it was the more surprising to taste through Alpamanta’s lineup, only to find beautiful perfume, but more importantly texture and balance holding up the intense flavors.

The adhered methods in the vineyard and cellar follow Rudolf Steiner’s biodynamic principles and define this style of wine. Try it and let us know if it’s to your liking. 36,000 bottles produced.

Gary Mills at Freebird, Bangkok

Tags

dallas cuddy, freebird bangkok, Gary Mills, jamsheed wine, marcus boyle, victoria wine

Step into the latest sanctuary off busy Sukhumvit Road and take in a little Melbourne.

Dallas and Marcus have created this pairing menu using elements of British heritage joined by a range of flavor and cooking techniques from around the world.

The menu is priced thb 2,700++ and includes 5 wines from Gary’s latest vintage showcasing his skills across 5 different varietals.

Belondrade Y Lurton, a Grand Cru for 20+ years

Tags

belondrade y lurton, grand cru, rueda, spain, valladolid, verdejo

Rueda has a fine-wine making tradition dating back centuries, especially the local white grape variety, Verdejo, has been regarded the best of Spain.

From the 1994 vintage onwards, the French husband and wife team, lead by Jean Belondrade, set out to create a great barrel-fermented dry white wine with Burgundian philosophy and values, resulting in a limited production Verdejo cherished by sommeliers from Paris, to London and Tokyo.

30 hectares  (74 acres) divided up into 19 plots that bring different characteristics to the wine, depending on soil types, exposures, rootstocks and clones. The soils of this part of the plateau are generally made up of a 10-60cm deep layer of pebbles over a layer of clay and a deep stratum of limestone.

The estate wine is 100% Verdejo fermented and aged on its lees in 300-litre French oak barrels. Each plot is fermented and aged separately. Spontaneous and controlled fermentation with indigenous yeasts.At the end of a 10-12 month ageing period, a selection and blending take place. The wine stays in bottle for a minimum time of six months. The average annual production is 80,000-90,000 bottles, 495 magnums (1.5 litres) and between 70 and 100 double-magnums (3 litres).

The family also produces an unoaked and fresher, lighter version called Quinta Apolonia, which is a good alternative for a fruity mid-weight wine for every day. While the estate garners ratings well above 90 points, the little brother gets reviewed between 88-90 depending vintage.