Domaine Fondreche Persia, Mont Ventoux

Tags

domaine fondreche, persia, rhone valley, sebastien vincenti, shiraz, syrah

Domaine de Fondrèche was founded by Nanou Barthelémy who purchased the property in 1993. A few years later her son, Sébastien Vincenti, started to make the wines after spending his formative years at leading estates in Chateauneuf du Pape.

Through his dedicated work, following natural leaders such as Didier Dagueneau, recognition began to build for a region once known for rustic wines. His detailed work in vineyard and cellar, for years created wines that offer superb value compared to more recognized appellations, yet still little known among the general public.

In general Fondreche’s style displays a Northern Rhone varietal purity with some tannins and a Southern Rhone generous mouthfeel. The wines are intense, yet refrain from being too opulent.

Old vine Syrah is grown on clay and limestone, the fermentation is traditional with a 2 to 3 week maceration, with little pigeages to promote a slow and gradual extraction, and aging in cement and 1,500 liter Stockinger foudres.

The 2016 Ventoux Cuvee Persia, always a Syrah-based cuvée, includes 10% Mourvèdre this year. It’s a blockbuster Persia, overflowing with plum and blueberry fruit, yet not heavy or simple. Black olives and espresso beans also make appearances, all buttressed by ripe tannins and a velvety texture. It’s supple enough to be approachable now but expect fireworks with a few years of cellaring. Robert Parker 94 points

90% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Aged in oak for 12 months. Superb violet and pepper fragrance, plus a lovely beefy note as well as blueberry fruit and furry tannic feel. This has  all the fragrance of the northern Rhône, but all the guts of the south. A good option when you can’t decide between Gigondas or Crozes? JR 17/20

 

 

The grand daddy from Getariako

Tags

basque, getariako, hondarrabi zuri, spain, txacoli, txacolina, txomin etxaniz

Of course the first taste of Txacoli was in New York City, sometime during the late 1990’s. Various hard to book seafood bars were serving this fizzy white with the unpronounceable grape called Hondarrabi Zuri. Its easy, yet also one of the great mineralic wines to pair literally with any kind of food.

Txomin Etxaniz was established in 1930, but has records dating back to to 1649, and is the biggest producer with almost 100 hectares. Their terraced vineyards overlooking the Bay of Biscay has ongoing air circulation to prevent diseases from spreading.

While you may have started to enjoy the white Albarino from Rias Baixas, or Viura planted in Rioja, these lip-smacking wines can be grouped with Chablis or Vinho Verde on wine lists. The more serious Txacoli aren’t as light in flavor or fizzy, and the carbonation is entirely natural.

“The Txomin Etxaniz is fresh and tangy, with a slightly chalky mineral and lemon flavor. It goes beautifully with the ubiquitous Basque snacks of anchovies and preserved tuna.” Eric Asimov, The New York Times

The 2015 vintage is described as “Light bright yellow. High-pitched aromas of citrus fruits and pear skin carry a dusty mineral overtone. Taut and linear on the palate, offering juicy Meyer lemon and green apple flavors that deepen steadily through the midpalate. Shows an emphatic stony note on the clinging finish, which leaves behind sappy orchard fruit and honeysuckle notes.” Josh Raynolds for Vinous