Old School Heritage from Toro

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alejandro fernandez, dehesa la granja, tempranilo, tinta de toro, toro, wine from spain

Alejandro Fernandez began his winemaking career without any formal education. His foresight to reignite the old vineyards of Ribera del Duero has brought international fame for many in the region.

The Bodegas Pesquera (1972) and Condada de Hazo (1995) aren’t small but still dwarf his 3rd estate near Zamorra in Toro. This D.O was established in 1987, and like many Spanish regions, produced huge amounts of wine for export to France during the phylloxera crisis (end of 19th century). The resistant old vines of Tinta de Toro (a Tempranillo clone) still stand out today.

The estate covers over 2,000 hectares and has about 600 planted with vines. In the mid 18th century men dug up tunnels (over 3000 m2) which houses today’s vintages before release. Since Senor Tempranillo is in no rush, it is us the consumer who benefits from th extended bottle maturation. What differentiates Toro from both Ribera del Duero and Rioja is the meatiness in the aromatic profile. Combined with black pepper, nutmeg and cherry liqueur it is certainly quite enticing.“Deep ruby. A complex, perfumed bouquet evokes dark berries, cola, smoked meat and mint. Supple and expansive on the palate, offering gently sweet blackberry and cherry-cola flavors that are firmed and lifted by juicy acidity. The smoky note repeats on the finish, which hangs on with very good tenacity and a whisper of fine-grained tannins. A fine effort for the vintage and delicious right now.” 91 points Josh Raynolds for Vinous

 

Grand Cru with shell limestone

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Austrian wine, domaine ciringa, Sauvignon Blanc, slovenia, styria, tement

The Zieregg vineyard with its exposition and soil composition can bear fruit for some amazing white wines, that will last over a decade. Many blind tastings of mature bottlings confirm its place in the wine Olympus regardless of origin.

While we did not yet meet Manfred Tement, it was his son, Armin, in charge of winemaking, who got us hooked on the single grape wine made across the border in Slovenia. Tasting their Styria bottlings at the Vivinum in Vienna in June 2016, all the wines impressed with clarity, yet we were curious to see how the market would react to Sauvignon Blanc that isn’t from Marlborough or the Loire Valley.

And the Fosilni Breg from Domaine Ciringa does not disappoint. It is less grassy than some Loire, and not as pungent as many New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. The wine harbors the perfect middle ground, and offers a mouthful of herbal oil infused aromas, minerals and long citric finish.

Mont Ventoux Rosé

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cinsault, grenache, rose wine, southern rhone, summertime, syrah, ventoux

The wines from Ventoux were often disregarded as rustic, and not noteworthy when compared to nearby Southern Rhone appellations. This changed about 20 years ago, with arrival of young talent, a rise in temperatures, and improved winemaking techniques.

Prior to starting at his mother’s estate in 1995, Sebastien Vicenti apprenticed under Rhône legend André Brunel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and was inspired by several natural wine greats like Didier Dagueneau, Clos Rougeard and Yvon Métras or Marcel Lapierre. Today they opt out of organic certification – “Sebastien has reservations over some of the products allowed within its rules; copper is usually the biggest source of arguments.”

Regardless, the domaine’s red wines are characterized by a deeply infused fruit profile, coupled with tight mineral core, that often benefits from aeration or aging in bottle. They are known for some of the best value available with ratings well above 90+ by renowned critiques.

This summertime rosé is made from 50% Cinsault, 25% Grenache, 25% Syrah, grown on sand. Raised entirely in tank with short lees contact, it is bright and aromatic ending with good mineralic cut.

Vinous “Light bright pink. Aromas of fresh red fruits and pungent flowers are complicated by subtle garrigue and mineral nuances. Taut and nervy in the mouth, offering bitter cherry and strawberry flavors that show a vaguely bitter edge. Closes chewy and taut, delivering solid punch and bright, minerally persistence.” 88p

Jancis Robinson, Master of Wine “Definitely not like a Provençal rose. Good and racy with quite high acidity. Some saltiness. But not the fruitiest.” 16/20p

Robert Parker “Sourced from the estate’s sand and silt soils, the 2016 Ventoux Rose may be pale in hue but it’s no shrinking violet. It pumps out bold aromas of citrus and stone fruit plus hints of red berries. Six months on the lees gives it a rich texture but it never seems heavy, finishing with refreshing acid zip.” 89p