Wine events in Bangkok Nov 2020

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To garner diner’s attention, Bangkok chefs and purveyors have created an array of tempting events and activities to explore before we head into December. Please peruse and contact the venues for further details.

THU 19 NOV @ QUINCE BANGKOK (SIRI HOUSE)

Kicking off a Guest-Chef Series that proposes to explore the possibilities of cooking with fire through monthly collaborations with some of the city’s most spirited chefs. The aim is to offer “elemental, fundamental and delicious” food using the best available ingredients and putting them through the test of fire to highlight their finest attributes, from seasonal organic vegetables to local and imported meat and seafood. “Episode One” of the PRIMAL INSTINCT series has guest-chef Chet ADKINS, chef/owner of Jua and Little Market. Dinner will be served à la carte in addition to the regular menu. The theme of “Episode One” will be “Kushiyaki Mash-Up”: a reinterpretation of classic Kushiyaki dishes (Japanese skewer/grill), putting twists from both Chet and Quince’s chef Steve into the mix.

Siri House is located in Soi Somkid, next Central Chidlom. To inquire or book please email eat@quincebangkok.com . Tel 094 868 2639

MON 23 NOV @ JUA

Join Prin, Chet and Chalee at JUA, as they skip the turkey, and instead give thanks to glorious Thai Wagyu!

Featuring Thai jasmine wagyu sourced from the fine folks at Arun Supa Farm in Khon Kaen, chefs Chalee Kader (100 Mahaseth) and Prin Polsuk (Samrub for Thai) team up with Chet Adkins to bring you 12 delicious courses showcasing a variety of prime and secondary cuts from this truly gorgeous animal. Seats are thb 3000++. Jua is located off Charoenkrung Rd and near the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel. To book please call 02 103-6598

TUE 24 NOV @ RIEDEL WINE BAR & CELLAR

We collaborate again Chef Patrick, this time with “Iberia Feria” featuring wonderful selection of 4 tapas, followed by a scrumptious “cocido madrileno” deconstructed into 3 hearty courses, all accompanied by handpicked wine labels from Spanish top soil’s. Limited seats available, sit down at 7pm. Riedel Wine Bar is located within Gaysorn on Rachaprasong. To book please call Tel 02 656 1133.

WED 25 NOV @ COCOTTE FARM ROAST & WINERY

Chef Jeriko digs deep into his repertoire and pulls out sublime traditional French recipes for a spotlight on the fine wines of Burgundy. This 5-course pairing menu including turbot and pigeon and wines from the Yonne down to the Cote d’Or, with highlights being Meursault and Auxey Duresses from the early 1990s. The menu is priced at thb 4,290. Sit down is 7pm. Cocotte is located between Sukhumvit Soi 31 and 49. For bookings please contact adrien.a@hmgtasia.com or call Tel 092 664 6777

NATURAL WINE WEEK 24-29 NOV

Bangkok’s first Natural Wine Week takes place end of November in various venues spread across the city. During this week wine lovers can venture to participating venues and try 5 wines by the glass and more by bottle.There will also be several natural wine masterclass covering a bevy of subjects. Come on board, and we look forward to see you About Eatery, Kangkao, Naturalista, MUST Wine Bar, Marchwood, Cloud Wine Commons, Terroir Expression, Soul Food Mahanakorn, 100 Mahaseth, Funky Lam Kitchen, Jua, Appia, Broccoli Revolution, Siri House and few more.

For all details please visit event page on Facebook link here .

Amber Wines x Issan Tapas, Mahaseth Ekamai on Oct 21st 2020

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Welcome to the new era of Issan cuisine. While somtam and grilled chicken are still a favorite, what Thai chefs are dishing out at Mahaseth or DAG (Warehouse 30) is pushing the envelope beyond any expectations.

On Wed Oct 21st, we team up with Chef Chalee Kader, who prepares the below menu, served shared, and priced at thb 1,300++ per person. Diners can choose from a list of 5 amber wines – ranging from a short maceration period to over 6 months – and learn to explore the nuances of these phenomenal category. In addition, we will also serve Okro’s Wines from Georgia, a light red from Saperavi Budeshuri and short skin contact from the Mtsvane grape. Red wine lovers will not be left dry, as we will bring one in line with the theme here.

To book please email 100mahaseth.ekamai@gmail.com or call 02 235 0023.

Loire Valley dinner at Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar on 25 Aug 2020

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We have always been admiring the nuanced wines from the Loire Valley. The whites at times elegant and crisp, then also deep and mineral, or with sweetness only found elsewhere in Germany. For the reds its Cabernet Franc, ranging from the casual bistro wine to wines that compete neck-to-neck with the most famous names from Bordeaux when mature.

There is a whole world of greatness out there to explore, but this time we will showcase the classics with recipes provided from the estates in the wine pairing.

The menu is priced at thb 2,500++. Individual tables can be booked with sit down at 7.30pm. Please call 02 656 1133 or email: info@riedelwinebarbkk.com

Don Asado, Bangkok

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We have only ventured into this one-year old Argentinian grill recently. Set up by gourmand friends, who brought in an Argentinean chef as partner, to run the daily show.

Casual, high quality cuts, and well executed dishes. What’s not too like!

Here is the latest menu, which surely will make your mouth salivate!

Opened for dinner from Tuesday through Sunday; the brunch is offered on weekends. To book please call 02 005 6627

237, 1 Yen Akat 2 Alley, Chong Nonsi, Yan Nawa, Bangkok 10120

Wine Lab at Cloud Wine Keller

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The idea behind the wine lab is to allow wine drinkers to taste through an array of styles and form their own opinion about the taste and aroma profile of each bottle.

In this exercise, there are 12 classically-styled wines from our portfolio – a mix of white, rose, red, sparkling and sweet – from the Old and New World. Some will be young, a few with several years in bottle, and also a couple mature wines.

Our team has created a tasting sheet to record your notes, which can be later compared to our own interpretation. A glossary with many important wine terms will be used as an aid.

The tasting and discussion will take around 90 minutes, and after this activity, you will be more comfortable to select wine styles of your preferences, while we can be informed about your palate, and hopefully service you better.

To book please:

Email order@cloudwine.asia or

contact us via LINE cloudwinecommons

The available slots will be between Wednesday and Monday from 4pm to 9pm; starting this July 1.

Set at thb 1,000 per person, with thb 500 used to credit for your future purchase. We can allow maximum 8 persons per group.

Cloud Wine Keller is located in Baan Suanplu, Suan Plu Soi 2. Click here for map

A fabulous braised chicken dish

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Here we begin with the original version from Mark Bittman’s instructions:

bittman chicken

Ingredient list:

Chicken breast, tomatoes, lemons, capers, olives, olive oil and basil

Preparation:

  • Heat oven to 220 C. Combine 2 or 3 chopped tomatoes, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 teaspoon capers and a handful of olives.
  • Lightly grease the pan with olive oil, then put the chicken in the pan and pour the tomato mixture over it.
  • Roast for 10 to 15 minutes, or until just cooked through.
  • Garnish: Chopped basil.

***

But suggest you extend the cooking and ingredients a little further with our adapted version

  1. Organic chicken leg and thigh (one piece per person)
  2. green olives (2-3 per piece  per portion)
  3. capers (1 table spoon per portion)
  4. cherry tomatoes (3-4 per piece per portion)
  5. chicken stock (one pack for 2-3 persons)
  6. lemon (1 piece) use half for 2-3 portions
  7. white wine (1/2 to 1 cup)
  8. sea salt
  9. pepper
  10. extra virgin olive oil

Preparation:

  1. Rub chicken with lots of olive oil, season with sea salt and pepper
  2. chop the capers
  3. chop the olives
  4. slice the cherry tomato without halving them
  5. Squeeze lemon juice into small bowl
  6.  Utensils you will need include a deep pan with lid or better cask iron casserole, dutch oven; you will need a thong, spatula, large spoon

Step 1

  1. Heat the pan to high heat; (ideally use one that is deep with a lid or use a cask iron casserole, dutch oven; hot is when a few drops of water sizzles quickly)
  2. Place the morsels skin-side down; it takes 3-4 minutes to brown (crispy), move gently so that the skin does not stick to pan (ref video here)
  3. Turn the morsels and move gentle for another 3-4 minutes
  4. (if you more pieces than the pan can fit; remove the first batch to rest and start again)

Step 2

  1. with the chicken in the pan, pour the stock, add the olives, capers and tomatoes
  2. reduce heat to simmer
  3. add 0.5 to 1 cup white wine
  4. make sure the liquid covers half of the thighs, not covering the skin
  5. season with lemon juice
  6. Close the lid almost entirely
  7. This slow braising will take roughly 45 min depending the size of the morsels
  8. If the liquid is evaporating you have two options. Either add more stock if the sauce needs more intensity or add pure water
  9. Check on liquids every once in a while and move the morsels around a little with a spoon
  10. Towards the end of cooking time, you can poke a sharp knife into thickest part of the leg, next to the bone and see if any blood is coming out; if the liquid is clear, the chicken is fully cooked. (Below photo is pan roasted in the oven; Bittman’s version)

bake chicken

Side dish

We enjoy eating this with any kind of salad and also sweet potatoes. Some grown here will do just fine, otherwise pick from Japan or the US.

  1. Poke the entire sweet potato with a fork
  2. Place in oven for 45-60 min at 180C
  3. When almost done the sugars on the skin start to caramelize
  4. Ready when sharp knife pokes in all the way
  5. Slice in half

sweet patoto

Delivery tips for shut down in Bangkok

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Below is a previously shared list, with a few more additions. However, due to business and government decisions it is changing day-by-day; please call to check on their operations time. Probably also a good idea to visit BK Magazine

THAI

  • Bolan Thai Set Thonglor @ thb 1,500 Tel 02 260 2962
  • Err Rustic Thai sets starting Thb 220 up Tel 02-622-2292
  • Le Du’s favorite River Prawn Set THB 900 Silom ; Tel 092 919 9969  from 3 pm. Pick up time 5:30-9:30 pm
  • Mayrai Pad Thai Tha Tien 12pm-10pm except Tue Email Mayraibkk@gmail.com
  • Baan on Wireless Email baanrestaurant@gmail.com ; Lunch 1130am-230pm and dinner 530pm to 930pm
  • Kua Kling Pak Sod Tel 02 259 5189
  • Funky Lam Kitchen, Thonglor, Loatian Isaan Tel 02 050 0469 dinner only
  • Charm Kaeng Curry in Charoenkrung Wed through Sun Tel 081-822-0182
  • Soulfood Mahanakorn Lunch & Dinner Tel 02 714 7708
  • Rongros in Tha Tien offers “rosduan” delivery call Tel 096 946 1785
  • 100 Mahaseth in Charoengkrung Tel 02 235 0023
  • DAG , lots of meaty, home ferments at Warehouse 30 ; Tel 087 363 2629
  • 80/20 use LINE ID @8020bkk or call 099-118-2200‬
  • Krok by Chefs of 80/20 Tel 098 940 3406
  • Taan at Siam @ Siam Tel 065 328 7374
  • Sumrub for Thai set menu and few smoked meats dishes Wed-Sun Tel 5-6pm for delivery. Email sumrabforthai@gmail.com

WESTERN

  • Broken Eggs, Spanish Tapas Tel 02 047 7811
  • Appia Roman Trattoria sets for 1-2-3 person, etc Sukhumvit Soi call 02 261 2056
  • Peppina Pizza, Salads, etc Sukhumvit Soi 31 via foodpanda
  • Quince at Siri House, Ploenchit call 094 868 2639
  • Luka Pan Road, Silom Tel 02 637 8558
  • Eat Me Silom 3-course prix fixe @ 990 Tel 02 238 0931
  • Smoking Pug (Ribs, burgers) Langsuan Tel 083 029 7598
  • Bunker New American Sathorn Tel 092 563 9991
  • Mikeller by Dan Bark Ekamai Tel 083 783 1393
  • About Eatery Asoke Tel 092 907 2191
  • Thaan Grill Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel 086 303 1211
  • Roast all day & coffee Sala Daeng call Tel 091 018 8355
  • Kuppa all day dining & coffee Tel 02 663 0495
  • H Dining all day & coffee Thonglor Tel 02 058 2699
  • Foodie Collection has multiple concepts visit website

INDIAN

  • Ms Maria & Mrs Singh, Gaggan’s new venture with Gaby Tel 091 698 6688
  • Haoma from 3pm onwards Biryanis and Curries 093 125 0699
  • Punjab Grill Tel 02 645 4952

OMAKASE / JAPANESE

  • Isakaya and bento box Tel 02 103 6598 contact the team at Jua

Sushi Masato delivery

OTHER

  • Freshly roasted coffee from Left Hand Roaster website
  • Greek Yogurt by Lykke order via LINE @lykke
  • A variety of quick meal providers at Commons Sala Daeng; visit website
  • Amantee Bakery Tel 081-814-0920
  • El Mercado grocery Tel 02 117 3799 and website
  • Bolan CSA Community Supported Agriculture basket thb 800 Tel 02 260 2962
  • Greens Garden farm from Chiang Mai 1-2 day for delivery Tel 063 786 3434
  • Premium Food for meats, dry pasta, condiments, cheese and cold cuts Email homedelivery@premiumfoodthailand.com
  • Paleo Robbie, primal grocery https://paleorobbie.com
  • Vivin for local artisan products, including cheese, cold cuts, condiments etc visit website

The fabulous 2017 Chablis by Thomas Pico

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The face of a man who works tirelessly in the vineyard. Thomas also just returned from a market visit to Japan, and headed straight to the Les Penitentes tasting, an off-fair in Angers during the St Jean de Greniers and Salon de la Loire.

IMG_5814

After the meager allocation of the 2015 and 2016 vintages, and supplemented by the delicious Vin de France from Limoux, which is now discontinued, we are now fully stocked with the superb 2017 vintage Chablis. This wine is a blend of sites all in Courgis, a small village in the Chablis appellation with 250 inhabitants. The other well known family and producer are Alice & Olivier de Moor, which whom Thomas share similar philosophies, and also learned from.

pattes loup bottle Cr 64 bottle

William Kelly describes it: “..wafts from the glass with aromas of fresh apple, white flowers and marzipan, followed by a medium to full-bodied, broad and satiny palate that’s racy but enveloping, with superb cut and definition despite its comparatively broad shoulders and textural profile.” RP 92 p

While this is not classic, the style is still very much Chablis, from hand harvest and natural ferment and low sulphur at bottling. It is the kind of wine that carries itself very well with modern haute cuisine found around the world, where chefs focus on the purity of ingredients, reducing butter, and giving each dish an acid lick.

Maison Sota appears to be Japanese Chalet that is set in a narrow side street of the 11th arrondissement. Currently, the lower floor is empty, leavings guests guessing what will happen in the future – a dance hall?

The produce is selected from a top supplier in one of France’s departements. Chef Atsumi’s classical training and Japanese perfectionism is seen and tasted across the small and large menu set at Euro 95 / 140. I have rarely tasted sweetbread and pigeon of this quality and cooking.

3 rue Saint-Hubert
75011 Paris

Tel: +33 (0)1 43 38 61 95 Email: contact@maison-sota.com

Fatalone, when the casual wine happens to be a grown up

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When we decided to try Pasquale’s Fatalone, we weren’t aware the estate is part of RAW Wine, and moving around the realm of Natural Wine Guru: Alice Feiring.

The aim was to locate a rich Southern Italian, made from organic grapes, that are tended by the owner and winemaker themselves. To our surprise, this unique bottle happens to taste classic, but also conforms to RAW’s strict selection process: organically farmed, using only own hand-picked grapes, low levels of sulphites, spontaneous fermentation and sustainable practices without sacrificing quality and taste.

pasquale

We sadly never visited the region, but know from friends who spent a few week during summer, that this part of Italy is one of the most laid back. The food is of course locally grown, fresh, but with enhanced flavors from the fertile soils. Writers call it the Vegetarian Nirvana. One can easily over indulge on the finest olive oils and milky cheeses.

This Primitivo follows the organic process: natural ferment, contact with the skin for 240-300 hours at controlled temperature. Open-cycle process with frequent pumping of the must over the pomace. Natural malolactic fermentation. No addition of sulphites during the whole vinification process.  Only after the end of the malolactic, re-integration of the sulphites lost during the vinification steps to restore the initial natural value. Ageing is 6 months in stainless steel tanks, and 6 months in Slavonic oak casks with the application of music therapy for the fining process of the wine, 6 months in bottle.

Warm scents and typically fruity berries, slight of black sour cherries and plum with some spicy and balsamic notes waft from the glass. A perfect balance of smoothness, freshness and minerality. A ripe and generous wine with 15% alcoholic content.

(Jancis Robinson rated the 2014 with 16.5 out of 20 points.)

Adrian Tramier, the Medoc Outsider

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old photo

According to an article in the Wine Enthusiast (Oct 28), contributor Roger Voss explains “This (Medoc & Cru Bourgeois) is the real Bordeaux: wines made with the same care as those from the famed Crus Classés, by families that have often been in the same place for generations.”

tramier vineyard

The many families here make outstanding wines, in the traditional sense, and when a Pied Noir, Tramier is of Algerian descent, moved in to make wine his way, and garnering awards from the local wine competitions, local eye brows were raised, especially since his style is so distinct. It has been a while since colleagues told Tramier “Your wine is good but it does not belong in the Médoc.” Today, he is part of group of burgeoning winemakers in the Northern Medoc appellation, who brings forth a deeper richer, and juicier style of Bordeaux.

The palate of the 2008 is mellow, the bouquet is layered with deep ripe cherry, underbrush, strawberry jam notes. You will find yourself reaching out for yet another, and another sip.

The 2009 was reviewed and awarded 16.5 / 20 by Jancis Robinson, MW

saint saturnin bottle

The below article by Jancis Robinson is an excellent review of the man and his idiosyncratic ways:


by Jancis Robinson, appeared in the Financial Times on Nov 13, 2010

On the day last June when Bordeaux second growth Château Cos d’Estournel announced the opening price for its 2009 vintage of €150 a bottle, I visited a wine producer less than 10 miles north-west of this famous St-Estèphe property. Adrien Tramier, owner of the much more modest Château St-Saturnin, had not yet decided on the price of his 2009. This was hardly surprising since, instead of being plugged into the rapacious rhythms of the Bordeaux place (merchants’ wine market), he sells when he feels like it. His average price per bottle from the cellars is under €10 and he was sure that he would not be asking more than €15 even for the most sought-after vintage ever, the 2009.

Tramier is unusual in so many ways that it is hard to decide in which order to list them. He uses no oak from choice. He still has some wine in tank from the first year he was proud of. That year was 1975 – yes, the village of Bégadan in the northern Médoc harbours some 35-year-old wine in bulk, in extremely appetising condition. In fact I’d say that Château St-Saturnin 1975 is much fruitier, more interesting and delicious than most of the far more high-flown 1975 red bordeaux I have tasted in recent years.

It perhaps goes without saying that Tramier is extremely idiosyncratic. His long-suffering oenologist partner Catherine rolled her eyes when he claimed never to be stressed and sighed, “It’s very demanding to work his long hours. He may suddenly decide to do some winemaking operation at 11pm.” He admits that he sleeps for only four or so hours a night, restlessly essaying new techniques and improvisations. “I can’t help always looking for something different. I’ve done it ever since I was a child,” he told me, eyes sparkling above his Father Christmas white beard. Certainly I cannot remember meeting another Bordeaux wine producer who received me in an open black silk shirt and carefully pressed jeans, nor one who wandered off in the opposite direction when I arrived at what he calls “my modest farm”.

His property in the under-populated northern Médoc looks more like a hillbilly encampment than a conventional wine château. There are breeze-block sheds, cylindrical tanks on their sides rusting at one end, larger upright steel tanks in the open air, casually jacketed with what looks like silver foil blankets. But there are certainly precedents for excellent wine emerging from such unsophisticated settings. Sean Thackrey’s California wines and Château Rayas in Châteauneuf-du-Pape spring immediately to mind.

Tramier landed in Marseille from Algeria in 1964 and went initially to study in Montpellier where his sister lived. He came to Bordeaux to look at a possible little wine property in the far east of the Entre-Deux-Mers region that a fellow pied noir, a lawyer, had found for him, but threw dice for it with another potential buyer and lost. Further pied noir contacts found him three hectares (ha) of vines in Bégadan (he now has 37ha around this village and the next), which he worked half and half with the previous owner to begin with. By 1975 he had established his very particular way of working but, he added wistfully, “I’ll never be integrated here. I’d like to return to Algeria one day, and I wouldn’t view it through the eyes of today but with all my childhood memories. I’m ill at ease here.”

I suspect he’d be ill at ease wherever he was. Tramier seems determined to question the status quo and is one of those rare wine producers who really does seem to be making wine for himself rather than for the market or the wine critics. Although he is constantly fiddling with it, his basic recipe is to grow the grapes – mainly old, small-berried Merlot with about 35 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 per cent Cabernet Franc, predictably the reverse of the usual proportions in the Médoc. For the past 15 years he has averaged only three sprayings a year in the vineyard, a record low for the damp climate of Bordeaux. And while for most of his neighbours the harvest is usually over by the end of September, he rarely picks (by machine; he had one of the first back in 1980) before the end of October. He somehow manages however to keep these extremely ripe grapes completely healthy, presumably helped by very low average yields of about 25 hectolitres per hectare. He then keeps the fermenting juice on the skins for months rather than days or weeks, exposing the young wine outside to the cold of winter and the warmth of summer. Last June he had only just taken his spicy 2009 off the skins.

As you may imagine, his wines taste very unlike the rather austere, light-bodied norm for the northern Médoc – the flavours are all bumptious, frank, tail-wagging fruit without any oak make-up. This has caused a certain amount of friction with the local wine authorities who have apparently told him, “Monsieur Tramier, there are 900 growers here. There is only one that disturbs us: you. Your wine is good but it does not belong in the Médoc.” It caused quite a stir locally when his 2005 won a gold medal.

I asked Tramier how he decides when to bottle. He frowned. “Some vintages I keep, others I bottle. There are no rules here.” The director of the official laboratory in Pauillac, who introduced me to Tramier, told me later, “He sells only when he needs the money. Then he tends to contact me, always in a hurry: ‘Can I meet you by the roadside somewhere so you can analyse my samples and then I can start bottling?’”

I see that currently his 2001 vintage is being sold at Auchan supermarkets in France, so there is clearly some commercial process involved, but when I asked how he sells his wine, I was told, “Money is not my aim. Harvests I like, money not so much. Fric? I live very modestly. When you arrive in France with nothing, you learn to do that. I don’t lack anything, which is why I allow myself these fantasies of making wine.”

Bordeaux is too often seen as exclusively a region of grand wine, high prices and predictable people, but there are vivid exceptions too.”

(END)