Thailand’s fresh wine faces

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Since this article was written for Thailand Tatler in early 2021, many sommeliers have moved away, to new properties or businesses. Regardless, their impact remains to be seen in our city until today.

Wine Dinner at Phra Nakorn, Capella Bangkok

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One-of-a-kind and one-night only wine pairing at the Capella Bangkok coming Monday May 30th 2022. Sommelier Thanakorn Bottorff with Chef Kannika Jitsangworn will be offering a 6-course menu paired with characterful wines made from indigenous varietals. Seats are priced at thb 4,500 plus tax and service. For reservations please call 02 098 3817 or email phranakhon.bangkok@capellahotels.com .

Wine Lab – Chateauneuf du Pape at Baan Turtle

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We are excited to be kicking off the wine lab again at Cloud Wine, Baan Turtle. Depending on the month, the line up can be either a series of bottles served blind from Coravin, or as shown here a horizontal tasting of five different styles of one of France’s greatest wine.

A great bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge bursts with rich cooked-to-dried aromas (strawberry, cherry, raspberry), as well as roasted notes (plum, blackberry, raisins or figs). As the wine evolves, herbal, floral, and spice notes appear. Francophiles – and the actual French – call the classic herbal play “garrigue,” after the region’s scrubland of sage, rosemary, and lavender. The wine style is full-bodied with alcohol levels reaching above 15% ABV. The texture is lush when young, and can obtain silky characteristics with age. For most but a few, the prime drinking window is between 8-12 years of age.

First up, is a bottle of rare white Chateauneuf du Pape, followed by four reds of different blends and winemaking fashion. This exploration will shed light on the terroir, fermentation and ageing method, as well as the signature of each estate. Our team will guide you through an in-depth experience including:

Michel Chapoutier Bernardine Blanc 2019 RP 90

Le Clos du Caillou Safres Rouge 2018 Vinous 94

Jean Royer Tradition Rouge 2017 Vinous 93

Laurent Charvin Rouge 2017 Vinous 95

Michel Chapoutier Barbe Rac Rouge 2012 JR 18.5 RP 95

Price per person: thb 1,900 for 5 pours of 60ml or thb 2,900 for 5 pours of 90ml

Please book ahead, alone or with friends, and our team will take care of you. Email retail@cloudwine.asia or call Tel 081 588 7238

Wine lab theme Chateauneuf du Pape takes place during November and until 12th December 2021.

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BAAN TURTLE is located in Soi Suan Plu 2. One of Bangkok’s signature dining spots off Sathorn Road now houses three culinary directions, plus a cigar and whisky lounge, as well as Cloud Wine.

Restaurant Keller by Chef Mirco Keller http://www.kellerbangkok.com

Lahnyai Nusara by Chef Thitid Tassanakajohn http://www.baanturtle.com/restaurants/lahnyai-nusara

M Krub by Chef Man http://www.baanturtle.com/restaurants/chef-mans-table-at-baan-turtle

To contact click details here

A tale of lamb, salt and wine

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It’s not just consumers who are looking for ingredients of provenance, but also the families who work the fields, the farmland and the vines who seek to nourish the environment for the greater good. New Zealand is naturally an ideal place, and Central Otago, a rugged landscape, where the Crutchleys completely transformed pastures over the past 10 years. They restored biological processes to the soil, moving away from a reliance upon agrichemicals that artificially promote growth. “Building living soil that does the growing for you, has proved a powerful, natural solution for creating nutritious forage,” says David, “the animals are so much healthier, the land so much more productive.” In similar fashion, Two Paddocks, where Sam Neill and his team planted and later turned vineyards to be certified organic. Montage Gourmet Salt harvest their salts mainly in Bali, Indonesia, however the Himalayan Salt comes from higher ground in Pakistan. Together, the combination offers you hand crafted goods that is readily available.

To prepare the leg of lamb, please follow these simple steps. Serves 3-4 adults

Preparation

  • defrost 2 days before cooking in refrigerator
  • cut pockets approx. 2cm deep and stuff with garlic and rosemary sprigs
  • rub meat with chopped rosemary and rest for 3 hours or overnight in fridge (wrapped with film)

Cooking

  • remove the leg 45 minutes before cooking
  • set oven to 220C (fan with grill)
  • season generously with Montage salt
  • roast at 220C for 30 mins and then reduce heat to 180C for another hour to achieve rare state
  • during this period you can baste the skin with the drippings
  • once desired doneness is reached, remove from oven and let rest under foil for 20 mins before carving

For making gravy from pan juice read here ; serve with vegetables and starch of your choice

To order call Accidental Butcher Tel 02 02-713-2800 Email: gm@theaccidentalbutcher.com LINE ID @theaccidentalbutcher

Provenance Lamb is farmed at an altitude of 1,500 metres above sea level. Being raised at high altitude brings fatuous benefits to the eating quality and flavour of the lamb. These lambs are raised on regenerative farms (no chemical use on farm, being artificial fertilizers, nitrates, etc). Animals graze free range on mixed pastures of herbs and grasses (no chemicals are used on the soils where the sheep graze)

Montage Gourmet Salts: Have you ever wondered how Himalayan salt gets its pink tint? Unlike regular table salt, the natural harvesting process of Himalayan salt allows it to hold over 84 different minerals and trace elements. In fact, it’s these very minerals, especially iron, that give it its characteristic pink color. The Pink Salt Flakes are the perfect finishing touch to make your dishes pop with color and to add that beautiful crunch.

Two Paddocks: Featuring the Proprietor’s Grandfather, Sidney Neill – Wine Merchant, on the label, Picnic is the perennial favorite – the wine to enjoy everyday and a wonderful introduction to the pleasure of Central Otago Pinot Noir.  This fruit was sourced from Two Paddock’s own vineyards in Alexandra and Gibbston and Bannockburn. Picnic Pinot Noir is made in a diminutive style aimed to reflect the characters that Central Otago Pinot does so very well – black and red cherry fruit, spice and a generosity that keeps you reaching for the next sip.

CONTACT LIST

ACCIDENTAL BUTCHER / 53 Soi Ekamai 10, Khlong Ton Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 http://www.theaccidentalbutcher.com

Tel 02 02-713-2800 Email: gm@theaccidentalbutcher.com LINE ID @theaccidentalbutcher

MONTAGE SALT

Andaman Gourmet Co., Ltd. / 44/561 Phahonyotin Road / Anusawaree, Bang Khen / Bangkok 10220

Email: montage@montagesalt.com LINE ID @montagesalt

…and abroad

Provenance Lamb E: http://www.provenancemeat.co.nz

Two Paddocks E: http://www.twopaddocks.com

Fabulous Langhe Nebbiolo from Hilberg Pasquero

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Producers in the Langhe zone need to work extra hard to obtain the same recognition as their brethren in Alba (Barbaresco / Barolo). A sad truth, as their work is no less diligent, in fact the contrary, when ensuring plenty of life in their vineyards. One such producer are Annette and Michelangelo of Hilberg Pasquero.

The 20th century farm is perched on a hilltop near Priocca, and the source of livelihood for the Pasquero family for decades. Miklo, the passionate agrar-scientist with Annette Hilberg use their in-depth knowledge, along with determination to find equilibrium with nature and bottle small quantities of organic wines, which deliver rich and flavorful reds loaded with personality.

From their 8 hectares plot they make a delicious range from Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo; bottling around 25,000 bottles per vintage. The soil here is clay with silt. In the vines, aged 10-90 years, they work with sustainable systems for the environment and people .The definition of their philosophy is summed up in the word “Bioergodinamica” where bio stands for life, ergon for the work of man. The harvest is handpicked, hand selected, with skin contact maceration, long and soft pressing, natural fermentation in steel tank, and aging in wooden casks for over 24 month.

They let the wines rest in bottle for quite some time, as with this 2014, which was released last year. A wine from delicate sandy soils enhances the floral and elegant character, giving it an incredibly pleasant and easy approach while finishing complex and in perfect balance.

This wine can be paired with Tagliolini with truffle or delicate pheasant or rabbit with fresh vegetables. They more adventurous can try rosemary-scorched tuna with salad and pomegranate dressing.

Antonio Galloni of Vinous “Hilberg-Pasquero’s 2014 Nebbiolo is powerful, dense and structured, with plenty of wild cherry, tobacco, licorice and menthol overtones.

Marietta based in Geyserville, Sonoma

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Scott Bilbro, one of Chris’ 4 sons, who took over the winery explains about this wine “The sum is greater than the parts. It was inspired by the old field-blend blocks and cooking with his (Chris) friends. It put Marietta on the map and has been a great connector. He’d blend on the hoof for a particular meal. Used Zin as the base at around one year old and two-year-old Syrah and three-year-old Petite Sirah.

At a time when blends were making way for single varietal wines, something many still regard highly, California’s real treasure trove lie in the heritage vineyard sites of unheralded locales.

Old Vine Red is a proprietary red wine made to replicate the field blends of many of the above mentioned vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino counties. Predominantly comprised of old vine Zinfandel, this iconic label offers year-in-year-out pure fruit, a supple mouth feel and a rich, solid structure.

To get to these grapes, a strong bond had to be made, and that was Chris’ strength in the early days, fostering relationships with meals and simple hand-shake agreements.

Deep ruby-purple in color, the NV Old Vine Red Lot 71 has bright black cherry on the nose, with accents of fresh tobacco leaves, wood smoke iron and potpourri. Medium-bodied, grainy and fresh, it has spicy, mineral-laced fruit and a long, lifted finish.” Erin Brooks, 94 points

A sweet wine primer

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Sweeet wines were the most prized tipple in the 19th century, often costing more then the highly regarded chateaux of Bordeaux. Most regions, depending on the location, over time learnt to create specialty wines with names we might not be familiar with. Those producer’s range, will likely include a sweet wine – meaning not fermented dry, from either white or red grapes. In areas along Europe’s coast, sweet wines often are made by arresting fermentation by adding distilled spirits (fortification). Regardless of the technique, these wines with residual sugar – dessert, sweet, or stickies, can be some of the longest lived wines with highly complex aromatics that surely mesmerize ones senses.

In our selection today, we suggest five easy drinking off dry and sweet wines that can be enjoyed chilled as an aperitif, with savory or spicy dishes, plus of course cheeses and desserts. They are crafted, but do not undergo complex or long processes that can be make them very expensive. Since natural grape sugar remains in these, the wines often have lower alcohol degrees. Below, we describe the wines from easy and fruity to more sweet or complex.

Braida Moscato d’Asti Vigna Senza Nome 2020, Piedmont, Italy

Often called the day-time Champers for its light alcohol, measuring a mere 5.5% ABV; this grapey, juicy and aromatic wine shows frothy orange blossom, rose and musk. Deliciously effervescent. thb 890; special @ thb 750

Domaine Aubuisieres Vouvray Plan de Jean Moelleux 2015, Loire, France

The great food-friendly Chenin Blanc from the Loire still could be more widely known and can be found bone dry, off dry, very sweet or also made into complex Cremants. The Moelleux here describes a wine that “is sweet, soft, tender, smooth and mellow”. Something for on its own, or with Blue and Hard Cheeses, or also moderately spicy or salty dishes. 12% ABV. thb 1,300; special @ thb 1,100

Weiser Kunstler Riesling Trabacher Schlossberg Kabinett 2018, Mosel, Germany

From a warmer side valley off the steep-sloped Mosel landscape is this textured and layered Kabinett wine. In this warmer vintage, the German Kabinetts could be confused with a Spatlese by ripeness and sugar levels. Gorgeously juicy and subtly creamy. 9.5% ABV. thb 1,200; special @ thb 1,000

Hofgut Falkenstein Riesling Spatlese Euchariusberg Kabinett 2018, Saar, Germany

The lightest and most transparent among German Rieslings, this Saar late harvest captures the grape’s slatey minerality with ripe, intense and concentrated aromatic profile. Long lasting flavors, and also a good distance runner for aging to gain complexity. 8.5% ABV. thb 1,400; special @ thb 1,100

Julien Schaal Altenberg de Bergheim Grand Cru 2017, Alsace, France

The pride and joy of the village of Bergheim is this Altenberg Grand Cru, known and celebrated for greatness since the 12th century. Julien Schaal is well connected to a large estate owner, and can sell organic Riesling and Gewurztraminer for this complex cuvee. 13.5% ABV. thb 1,400; special @ 1,100

Antonio Madeira, Dao Highlands

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António Madeira-Produtor de vinho no Dão Cr Niepoort Projectos

Portugal is remarkable for finding value and offers wines of character from indigenous varietals. Even if the Douro has cemented itself as the oldest demarcated region in the world, their red wines only became more familiar about 20 years ago. So how can one compare them to the reds of the Dao?

Photo Cr Os Goliados

At the more premium end, the Douro can be powerful with fine tannins, and the Dao shows comparatively softer with plenty of refreshing acidity. As with all Portuguese reds, except for the fruity styled, these will age extremely well.

The granitic outcrop and pine tree lined region of the Serra d’Estrela is were Antonio Madeira came home too. To resuscitate neglected vineyards is ambitious, but can be achieved as a side project. The initial vintages were made in his parent’s vacation home, and within a few years the promising wines were so well received, he made it is calling and relocated the entire family to focus on micro-parcels and historic preservation of vines well above 100 years old.

Granitic soil Cr Indigo Wine

Antonio cultivates over 20 plots across multiple villages, totaling 6 hectares of vines. Ferments and ages them now in his own winery producing around 6-7 cuvees each year. The wines are medium to full bodied, dark toned, energetic and perfumed, finishes spicy with plenty of layered fruit. We tried this over multiple days opened and the wine keeps on getting better at this stage. A blend of Tinta Pinheira, Negro Mouro, Tinta Amarela, Baga, and many more varietals, farmed biodynamically and aged for 18 months in neutral barrels. Alc 14.5%

Domaine Tissot Zoom tasting Aug 26th, 2021

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Chris Mercier of Wine & Spirit IQ will host this zoom tasting on Thursday August 26th – starting at 630pm.

He will share general content about the tiniest of French appellations, and cover the following 5 wines from Stephane Tissot’s stable:

Chardonnay Patchwork 2018

Arbois Savagnin 2016

Poulsard Vieilles Vignes 2018

Trousseau Singulier 2018

and Pinot Noir Sous La Tour 2018

To register please email: marketing@winegarage.asia. The price including some Comté cheese will be thb 1,650 per person and the tasting kit of 5 x 60ml bottles will be delivered during the day of the event.

Glorious whites by Eulogio Pomares, Rias Baixas

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It’s hard to believe that bottles from this region rarely made an appearance outside of Galicia until the 1990s. But once restaurants in London and New York got a taste for these thirst quenching and aromatic dry whites wines, there was no holding back.

Dr. Guenther, a Wine Garage partner visited Eulogio, the professore among the ever increasing number of producers, in 2018, and witnessed why Eulogio has the native Albarino in his genes. His vineyards lie about one kilometer away from the ocean, thus refreshed by the wind from the sea, and the high trellised pergola vines help aerate against mildew. Several generations of experience in this area cannot be fast tracked.

Eulogio told Guenther “the problem with Albariño is that the message has been ‘drink young, drink young, drink early, drink young’ for the last 20 years. But the best thing with Albariño is to make wines that last.” Their old vine and great healthy soils make Albariños that are not only the best white wines of Galicia, but potentially in all of Spain.

Over the years, many myths regarding Albarino was spread, among them “that this grape originated in the Rhine valley or was brought by French Cistercian monks on pilgrimage from Cluny in the 12th century. Today scientists at a research institute in Galicia have debunked theories and confirm it was cultivated from wild strain and has been in the region since Roman times” (Guardian Aug 2020).

We recommend to try this fresh, mineral and balanced cuvee, and if you enjoy it, later opt for their single vineyard wines, which will delight when around 5-7 years old. These are a world class act in line with the best Chablis, Muscadet and dry Rieslings.

Luis Gutierrez of Robert Parker “The eponymous 2019 Zárate is their entry-level Albariño, a vintage with structure and acidity, still very young, a powerful vintage with more of everything and probably a long-distance runner. It’s varietal and clean, characterful, powerful and with a long, tasty finish, vibrant and almost salty. 64,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2020.” – 92 points